Background info
India was long a British Colony and became independent in 1949 after a long and violent struggle. Statues of Mahatma Ghandi – who is considered a beacon of peace and hope - can be found everywhere, even outside of India. Cricket, a British sport, is like a 2nd religion and played everywhere, day and night. English is still a widely spoken language (alongside the official Hindi).
Typical Indian creations are Yoga and Ayurveda, both good for mental and physical health.
Since approx. 2025 India is the most populous country on the planet, just exceeding its neighbour China. The three big metropolitan cities are Delhi, Mumbai and Kolkata.
Almost 80% of people are Hindu and 15% are Muslim. With independence most Indian Muslims moved to Pakistan or Bangladesh. Buddhism started in India, but almost disappeared there and is now mainly practised in other Asian countries.
Many Indians are poor and live from day-to-day, often in slums close to major cities like Mumbai. Not everyone is able to finish school. Beggars are common as is theft. India‘s railway system is probably one of the worst in the world, with old steel trains that somehow get at their destination, fully packed with people. A trip to India is not complete without a ride on one of them.
India is also the country of high quality, world class software, with offices especially in Bengaluru and Hyderabad. Several CEOs of multinational companies like Google, YouTube, Microsoft and IBM are Indian. India was also the first Asian nation to reach the orbit of planet Mars in an unmanned space ship. Modern and advanced go hand in hand with poor and old-fashion.
It is impossible to describe all of India in a short blog. Therefore I will write about a few highlights, that I experienced myself during my visits and months there. Yes, I will go again.
India is not the easiest country to travel in, because of the culture shock, hygiene, food and travel. For some Sri Lanka may be an easier option.
The Golden Triangle
This circuit is approximately 700kms long and a show case of Indian culture, doable either by car or by train. In a week’s time you will be able to visit three major cities: Delhi, Agra and Jaipur.
Delhi is the capital and political centre of India and with 33 million (?) people one of the largest cities in the world. Yet, the heart of the city is quite walkable. Tourists will go visit the Red Fort, the India Gate and the Qutab Minar, all very impressive buildings with long history. But India is here to experience, for example with markets, bazaars, shopping and food. Delhi is a great location to find all of the real India.
Agra is the next stop in the circuit and known worldwide for one building: the Taj Mahal. This white marble mausoleum is an homage to Shah Jahan’s late wife and created in 1632. It is officially one of the seven wonders of the modern world and should be on everyone’s bucket list. The Agra Fort and nearby Fatehpur Sikri are also worth your time.
Jaipur is the capital of the very colourful state of Rajasthan. You may be able to take your best pictures here. Jaipur is known for the Palace of the Winds in the city centre as well as the Palace of Amber nearby, where you could ride an elephant to the entrance. Personally I liked it because of the animal life in the city: elephants, camels, cows, goats and monkeys. Nearby there are even nature parks with wild leopards and tigers! In Rajasthan you may be able to stay in a super-luxury heritage hotel / palace.
Personally I would always include Varanasi in this tour as well and make the Golden Triangle a Golden Rectangle. Even better… include more of Rajasthan (eg. Jaisalmer, Udaipur, Jodhpur) in your tour.
Mumbai
Mumbai is the first/second largest city of India (23+ million people) and financial capital of India, a true business hub. Mumbai has the highest number of billionaires in Asia, and also one of the largest slums in the world.
The most famous and very recognizable buildings in the city are the Gateway to India and the Taj Hotel, both along the waterfront. The train station, a gigantic hall full of trains and people, is another must-see site.
There are of course several very interesting temples in this gigantic city. 10kms outside Mumbai are the 2000+ year old Elephanta Caves dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva are most memorable.
Mumbai is also known for Bollywood and its many movies that were created here. It is possible to visit the studios.
Punjab and Amritsar
Punjab consist of an Indian part (capital Amritsar) and a Pakistani part (capital Lahore). With independence the original state was split in two parts straight through the middle.
Indian Punjab is a modern state with lots of agriculture. Amritsar is the religious centre for the Sikhs and the Golden Temple is the holiest building in Sikhism. It is an amazing place. All visitors must cover their heads and show respect. The kitchen next to the Temple breaks all records: every day up to 100,000 free meals are prepared in gigantic pots and pans. Volunteers cut all the potatoes, tomatoes and onions. Visitors, whether Sikh or not, can sit down and receive a free vegetarian meal.
30km North of Amritsar is the border with Pakistan, accessible by 1 hour bus or tour. Every day the flags on both sides are being lowered amid parades and lots of music (large drums). The soldiers on both sides really know how to make a show! It is an official border, and you will be security checked, so bring as little as possible.
North and East of Punjab you will enter the Himalaya region, with cities like Shimla, Manali, Leh and Srinagar. This needs more preparation.
Kerala and the Backwaters
Kerala is one of the richest and cleanest states of India. More people are educated than elsewhere. During my last visit here, I noticed that most women in Kochi still wear a traditional saree what is very beautiful to watch and really makes this Indian culture unique. In other cities jeans and regular clothing are also common.
Tourists know Kerala for the beaches and the back waters, a system of canals just behind the city of Alleppey. You can rent a house boat or a manned canoe here and float to see the region in peace and quiet, with or without a night stay on-board. Kerala is also known for tea, coffee and spice plantations. Highly recommended.
Personally I also stayed a few nights at the Amritapuri Ashram, the home of “Amma” (a modern saint, who gives everyone a hug). People from around the world stay, meditate, pray and volunteer for days, weeks or months, usually dressed in white. It is really inspiring with zero obligations, other than helping with cleaning and cooking.
Religious Centres, Varanasi
Religion is very important in India as is praying in the temple and finding auspicious dates for important events like marriage. Hindu priests are important people with a lot of influence.
Varanasi, or Benares, is one of the oldest cities in the world and has earned the nickname “City of Temples”. Varanasi is located on the banks of the Ganges and a major pilgrimage site for Hindus, Buddhists and Jains who bath in the river (aka Mother Ganges) for cleansing of their sins. Cremations and water burials also take place in “ghats” along its shores. Tourists can ride a little boat to see these rituals from the water while showing respect. This is quite an experience!
Another easily accessible location to experience bathing and cleansing in the river Ganges is Haridwar. Here the Ganges is still quite clean, without the pollution and dirty sewerage waters that mark the bad quality of the river elsewhere. From Haridwar it is an easy bus ride to Rishikesh, the World Capital of Yoga, where you can go kayaking with the Himalaya in the background. Even the Beatles came to Rishikesh to meditate.
Bodh Gaya is the most sacred Buddhist site worldwide. Siddhartha Gautama attained enlightenment under the Bodhi tree to become the Buddha in 528 BCE. Buddhists from everywhere now pilgrimage here for prayer and meditation.
Food
Indian food is world famous. Indian restaurants can be found everywhere. Hindus do not eat Beef. Muslims do not eat pork. Vegetarian meals in India are common and delicious, sometimes with a beer, sometimes with a mango lassi.
Typical dishes include for example:
• Biryani
• Curry
• Thali
• Roti, Nan
• Dosa (thosai)
• Tandoori
• Butter Chicken
• Tikka Masala
• Alo Gobi
• Samosa
Personally I really like Thalis, a mix of different meals in little portions, combined with either rice or Nan (bread). Curries can be spicy and overwhelming.
I really love Indian cuisine, but got a terrible diarrhea once, because I ate too much of the same. It made me lose 9 kilograms.
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